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Kirk Hallam Memories With Links To Mapperley BYGONE FARMING AND OTHER MEMORIES By George Wood Then came the harvest time, and once again I would watch those magnificent great horses pulling mowing machines, rakes and swath turners across the fields, and reapers and binders tying the crops into bundles; the culmination of the harvest time was the actual gathering in of the hay on to huge hay-carts by means of long forks and the subsequent stacking of it into the huge Dutch barns with their semi-circular steel roofs in the farm stackyards; the crop-bearing fields yielded up their produce to the giant threshing machines driven by a traction engine, separating the corn from the chaff. The children of the village attended the old school at the bottom of the hill, ably managed by Mrs Francis Bramwell, and then as they grew older, they would be sent further afield to finish their education at either Kensington, Cavendish, Hallcroft or Grammar School. There was just one small shop in the village run by the Chadwick family in their home, where I would frequently pop in to buy a pennyworth of Palm toffee, or two large white loaves for 4½d! We used to get our milk daily from an old lady, Mrs Camp, who used to come down from Ockbrook in a pony and trap, and we would listen for the clip-clop of the pony’s hooves as it came down the hill from Ladywood and pulled up at Bunkers, where she would measure out a gill of milk from a huge milk churn stood in the trap, and then off she would go down the village. The Ilkeston Co-op used to send a butchery van to the village two or three times a week, and a bakery van, whilst Bramleys of White Lion Square used to come round with a lorry loaded up with all items of household goods and utensils, and as he used to deliver paraffin too, to refill the lamps we had to use before electricity reached Back in the 1930’s, we were just getting electricity supplies to our village to supersede the paraffin lamp era, but up at Bunkers Hill we never did get a sewerage system installed, right up to the demolition of the cottages in 1953. Sanitation was extremely basic, with outside privies and no flushing facilities at all, just sprinklings of disinfectant powder. Bath night was accomplished with a galvanised tin bath on the hearth in front of the fire and keeping one’s fingers crossed that no female company would arrive unexpectedly! There were no gas or electric cookers, so all cooking and food preparation had to be done on the old open ranges and ovens, and ironing was done with the old flat irons heated in front of the fire. Hot water bottles were not in production, so fire bricks heated in the fire and wrapped in cloths were a cheap substitute to warm our beds. Fridges had not come into being, but in our house at Bunkers we had an underground cellar where food could be kept nice and cool. Ours was the only one which had a cellar, and it had been handed down by word of mouth that in years gone by, no. 1 Bunkers Hill, had been an ale house, a fact which I have tried unsuccessfully to verify with County Records at Matlock. From the door of our house at Bunkers, there was nothing but fields all the way to Derby Road, with Shipley Wood in the distance, the only sign of habitation was Thacker Barn Farm, and on a clear night, it was possible to see the light flashing on top of the Sherwood Foresters memorial tower at Crich Stand. During the summer, we used to see scores of people and lots of kiddies strolling past and heading up the hill towards Ladywood, either to pick bluebells or to carry on to Dale Abbey to picnic there, and on their return we would always get many requests for a glass of water to quench their thirst. We used to get lovely hot summers back in the 1930’s, year after year, without fail, but we also used to get quite severe winters too, and many’s the time we had two to three feet deep snow drifts and had to dig ourselves out of the house each morning. I used to feel heartily sorry for some school children who lived at Dale Abbey, and who had to walk all the way to Ilkeston each day to go to school, and then walk all the way back at night, ploughing through snow-drifts up to their hips all the way, as there were no buses for them, and if there had been, they would have been too poor to pay bus fare. One of them was in my class at Cavendish. A few of us lads used to go down the fields towards Derby Road armed with small fishing nets and jam jars to catch sticklebacks in the canal. One day, I remember one lad catching a pike which was trapped in a pool, and he hit it on the head with a stick as it was too large for our nets, that was his tea that night. Kirk Hallam was a bird watcher’s paradise, as we had so many different types in the area. Just off-hand, I can name the more common birds we used to see daily - house sparrows, hedge sparrows, robins, blackbirds, thrushes, blue tits, great tits, wagtails, magpies, chaffinches, bullfinches, wood pigeons, swallows, corncrakes, yellow hammers, crows, rooks, plovers, skylarks, starlings and the cuckoo. The ancient Church of All Saints was, of course, the focal point of our small village. The Vicar in those days was the Reverend John Edward Dallimore, whose initials J.E.D. prompted us young ‘uns to call him “Jeddy”! At the side of the church was a large wooden hut known as the Parish Room, which was used for social evenings and wedding receptions. In the late 1930’s, a Mr Taylor came to live in the village, and he managed to persuade all the youth of Kirk Hallam and several from Little Hallam to form a Bible Class which met every Sunday afternoon in the Parish Room. One Christmas, the Bible Class performed a Nativity Play, which was very well received by the villagers, and I was one of King Herod’s guards in the play. I shall never forget watching with fascination our bell-ringer, Alfred Rice, whose parents owned Spring Farm, ringing the peal of three bells by pulling a rope with each hand and ringing the third by putting his foot in a loop of the rope - quite an achievement to keep up for a prolonged period. The church was always at its best when decorated for the annual Harvest Festival each summer. The interior of the church resembled a huge garden and allotment as every available space, window ledges, the font etc, were full of all the local produce from farms, gardens and orchards, and the old rafters would resound to the Harvest hymns sung with great gusto, “Come ye thankful people come”, “We plough the fields and scatter” or “Praise, O praise our God and King”. The produce was afterwards divided between the poor parishioners and Ilkeston Hospital, so I was told. On odd occasions, I used to pump the bellows of the organ for Mr Clay, our organist. On the morning of Sunday, 3 September, 1939, we were all in church awaiting the start of the 11.00 am service, and Rev Dallimore had stayed behind in the Vicarage to listen to what the Prime Minister, Mr Chamberlain, had to announce in his scheduled broadcast. After a few minutes, Rev Dallimore came slowly into the church, climbed up into the pulpit, and gave the solemn news that we were now at war with Germany. Some of the older parishioners were already serving in H.M. Forces, but within a few years we teenagers joined the ranks of all three services. From our small village seventeen of us went to serve our country, and thankfully, sixteen of us returned home safely after the War. But alas, our beautiful, quiet, country village was soon torn asunder by post war development, so that now our village, which dated back to the Domesday era has been virtually obliterated. The four old farms, Bunkers Hill Cottages and my Aunt and Uncle’s home have all been wiped off the face of the earth, and if we look at a map of this area dated 1970, you have to use a lot of imagination to even find where Kirk Hallam used to be. FROM THE PARISH BOX. Tithes. Parish of Kirk Hallam The whole quantity of the Lands of the said parish which are subject to the payment of any kind of Tithes is 684 acres 0 roods and 9 perches statute measure, and the names of the respective owners thereof and the proportional sums at which such lands respectively are rated to the poor are as underwritten, that is to say, WALKS THROUGH KIRK HALLAM June 12th 1837, By George Pitchford FROM THE PARISH BOX. Queen Anne’s Bounty to Kirk Hallam. A KIRK HALLAM VISITOR, Bounty Office; 2 September 1841; Revd. P. Parker Granny and Grandad Boswell lived at the top of the hill, on the opposite side, and Uncle Cal and Aunty Lillian’s bungalow was a little further along, on the same side, and when built was the last dwelling before the Cat and Fiddle Mill on that side of the road. For me, the great attraction of Kirk Hallam was the number of cousins I had as playmates there, and the freedom to play in the fields, the grass springy underfoot. The journey to Kirk Hallam was an adventure, sometimes we caught the Felix bus from Ilkeston Market Place to Straws Bridge, and walked uphill over the fields, passing part of a disused canal, and finding wildflowers, some, Wild Scabious for instance, which I did not see in my home village of Cossall. Do they still grow in Kirk Hallam, I wonder? This walk ended at a five-barred gate, opposite Aunty Lily’s bungalow (Goole Avenue is now built nearby). Although I went to Sunday School in Kirk Hallam for a time, when we sometimes stayed overnight with Granny Boswell, I remember little about the church itself, although I do have a vague memory of being there with my cousin Marian and feeling the peace and calm. Later, I must have been there for Granny’s funeral, in 1949, but recall nothing of this occasion. Sunday School was held in the cosy little village school, just downhill from the church, on the road to the Beauty Spot. One other memory I have is of the Sunday School treat, a sunny day and the Rev Dallimore throwing sweets to be scrambled for, on the Vicarage lawn. This would have been some years before he was made a Canon. Other memories are of going errands with cousin Joyce to farms for eggs or cream, one farm being Parkin’s farm, the other a black and white building, built “around a square” and situated at the corner of Ladywood Road and a little lane, leading south. Wet and cold days there must have been, these survive in my memory as warm times indoors, reading a variety of comics, including FROM THE PARISH BOX. Restoration in 1859 A new pulpit and other fittings are greatly needed, but are of necessity postponed, as there is a large deficiency upon the works already completed. To meet this deficiency, a Collection will be made in the Morning Service at the Offertory, and after the Sermon in the Afternoon. A KIRK HALLAM ASSOCIATION By J. D. Evans The old school, when built, had a cottage at the back where, presumably, the school master or mistress lived but latterly it was occupied by the Caretaker, Mrs Lings, and her family. I remember Mrs Bramwell, the Headmistress, who at some time built the house at 75 Ladywood Road, “Lytton”, this could have been at the same time as the sale of the Hall. Where the bungalow is now built, the school children came for games. I also remember Mrs Shorthose, who was from Little Hallam, teaching at the school. My step-Grandfather, At this point I shall mention the Waterworks (as Mr Wilkinson always referred to them), later to be known as the Beauty Spot. Built to supply Ilkeston with water, it later fell into disuse as it could not supply the increased quantity required. The Yews, below the old school, a cottage still standing, was a smallholding. The Eaton family lived there, hence Eaton Avenue. Mr and Mrs Latham then followed. The various farms in Kirk Hallam were either rented or owner occupied and mainly family run, with houses with attics for single staff living in. Each had traditional buildings to house stock and produce, and the cow-sheds were single storey except Vine Farm which had a loft, as did all of the stables, for the storage of fodder, with hatches for feed to be dropped through. The barns had two large doors to the eaves and one smaller opposite, this would be where the sheaves of corn were threshed with a flail, the straw then forked off and the corn and chaff tossed. The draught between the doors separated the corn from the chaff. This would be done until the coming of the portable threshing machine and supporting tackle such as chaff cutter, straw binder and later, a baler. When Mr Sam Bown, of Ockbrook, arrived with this tackle, it was pulled and driven by a steam engine, then later by a tractor. All of the families of the farms helped out in turn. All of the farms were traditionally farmed, the pastures being permanent grass for grazing and hay, the arable for a corn and roots rotation. Many of the pasture fields were lanted (giving them an appearance similar to corrugated iron sheets). These lants were approximately 10-15 yards wide and ran with the natural contour of the land and served as drainage, leading to a man-made watering hole. The milk from the farms went to various dairies in Ilkeston, and the fat cattle and pigs also were sold in Ilkeston as being walked to Derby would result in a loss of condition. Spring Farm, as the name suggests, was where the village spring was, and no doubt it was the duty of the tenant to maintain it. This farm was also associated with the Newdigates and their agent Mr Evans, the father of Mary Ann Evans, better known as the 19th Century authoress, George Eliot. I hasten to add that I am not related to the Evans family. For some years, Mr Rice farmed at Spring Farm and he was also the Sexton/Verger, and he was followed by Mr H Moss, who farmed until the demolition of the farm. Sowbrook Farm was (and still is) some way from the centre of the village and was reached via Dark Lane, through the gated fields of Spring Farm, and past the spring. It was farmed by the Blood family, followed by Mr Jeff Barker, and, on his return to Foxholes Farm on his father’s retirement, Stanton Ironworks Company took it in hand, having lost land due to the expansion of the works during the War. The dairy herd moved there, the milk going to the various canteens and the herdsman, Mr Hooley, served and held office in the church. After a change of policy due to nationalisation, it returned to the rented section. On the other side of the lane from the farm is Sowbrook Pond, which was to gain notoriety from an incident that took place in 1939. (A man from Ilkeston murdered his wife and two children and was later convicted as insane - Ed’s note.) This pond, together with others, were probably not natural ponds but the result of clay being dug for brick making and furnace lining, etc. One of the ponds was owned by Stanton Ironworks and furnace waste was tipped near it (I believe this can still be seen on the edge of the Estate near Wirksworth Road). When this tip was being used, the wind blew some of the lighter spoil over the Poplar Farm pond and this being of a corrosive nature it killed the trees around it. This resulted in a claim for compensation, which was settled by the Company and the tip was abandoned. Those who own their property on what was Poplar Farm have a clause in the deeds indemnifying the Company from any further claims in respect of damage from the tip. Vine Farm was farmed by the Reeves family, followed by Sam Parkin, Senior and on his retirement, by his son, also Sam. On his death, the farm buildings and paddock were demolished and Vine Farm Close was built. The village, in the early days, was serviced by J Bramley of White Lion Square, Ilkeston, who travelled with horse and dray and later a lorry, with chandlery, pots and pans, and paraffin for the oil lamps. His daughter Ada accompanied the vehicles and eventually married Sam Parkin. As the name suggests, at the side of the road in the garden at Poplar Farm, there was a Poplar tree, which over the years suffered damage from the weather before it was cut down when the farmhouse was demolished. This was the largest of the farmhouses in Kirk Hallam and had an extension which was most probably added at a later date. The part along the side of the road had beamed ceilings and attics, it also had a cellar (I slept in this, during the early part of the war). The front and somewhat newer part which had a gable end to the road was of only two storeys with no beams. On the roadside gable end was a plaque, an insurance mark, which was the cause of much interest and is now, I believe, in the Museum in Ilkeston. As mentioned earlier, Sam Wilkinson was the owner of Poplar Farm. His association with it began with his father, Walter, who was a Pork Butcher at the corner of Nottingham Road and Park Road, in Ilkeston. On Walter’s death in 1919, all his property was put up for sale, of which I still have the Catalogue. Sam more or less ran the farm for his father but his main role was to breed, rear and fatten pigs for the shop. Then the opportunity arose to buy the farm which included Bunkers Hill Cottages. In the Catalogue, the then tenants were listed as W. Parkin and F. Parkin, who had lived-in at the farm during their youth and on marriage had set up home in the cottages. William lived at the cottages until his death, his family and Frank (who often reminisced about early Kirk Hallam) remained there until demolition. From a simple ledger (in my possession) kept by Sam, it was obvious that, as money become available, he set out to renovate and add to the existing buildings. Most of the loose boxes and yards were made dual purpose for cattle or pigs, and when the pigs were in the larger ones, they were often self-fed from hoppers, quite an innovation at that time. There was a row of specialist pig sties with a paddock (near Hemlock Lane) and backing on to these were dual purpose sheds for pigs and other stock but unfortunately, due to the war, these were not completely finished. Most of the ingredients for the pig-meal were bought in and mixed to Sam’s own recipe, and he also purchased boars from notable herds to improve the breeding, these boars were also to stand at stud for other farmers. Obviously, with the loss of the home shop trade, other outlets were sought and from his repute many finished pigs went direct to a wholesale butcher in Nottingham. Also in the ledger there are recorded Church Commissioners ‘Tithe’ payments which were paid by all the farms. A tractor was purchased for £200, although, as in many cases at the time, most male farm staff could drive horses and not tractors, and I would imagine it only did the heavier work, such as ploughing, as photographs show horses with the binder cutting the corn. I suspect that the main reason for its purchase was for driving the barn machinery, as the main shaft protruded through the wall with a pulley for a belt to the tractor (no electricity). The tractor and plough were sold to Winrow Cliff of Dale Abbey, during the early part of the war, who did contract work for farmers in the neighbourhood. Horses still did a lot of the work. A cost is recorded in the ledger of two mares going to the stallion. A wagoner with a horse and cart was contracted out to the Council, as were others from around the district for the road sweeping gangs. Also recorded is the purchase of two Flock Houses at £40 each, from Vic Hallam of Marlpool. These must have been some of the earliest that he was to make. They were set up in the orchard which had been divided by wire netting into several runs, the smaller ones each had a suitable hen coop, also from Vic Hallam. The eggs from these were used for breeding, with an incubator, although I do not recall it being used. The chick brooder was purchased at a later date when day old chicks were purchased. The netting was showing signs of wear and tear at the outbreak of the war and could not be easily replaced, and as livestock food was rationed, so the flocks were reduced and went free range, those wandering off and late returning after the dropping of the shutter were much to Mr Fox’s delight. I remember before the war that this original cow-shed and dairy were guttered and brought up to a high standard by local builder Allan Wheatley. A local plasterer remembers working on this project in his apprenticeship. A milking machine was installed at this time. As with the pigs and horses, the cattle were also improved by breeding. Among the bulls purchased was one, of which we have a photograph, from the then Prince of Wales’ farm at Lenton in Nottingham, which was later to become the headquarters of Boots Horticultural Department, and is now part of the University Campus. As the farm was steadily improving with the times, World War II loomed and was subsequently declared, this was to change many things roundabout, with the blackout, rationing which included livestock, and maintenance of buildings etc, was very much curtailed with new building virtually non-existent because everyone was working for the war effort. Early in the war, the Army commandeered approximately five acres of land on the highest part and established a searchlight unit there, the generator for this was adjacent to Bunkers Hill Cottages. Sadly, in March 1944, Sam became ill while milking and died within twenty-four hours. This was a big shock for the family and to all who knew him. The church was full for the funeral, and although I was only fifteen at the time, I remember the farmers lining the church drive and following the mourners in. However, things could not stop and my Grandmother carried on, with help and advice from the War Agricultural Executive Committee. This was the time that I lived at the farm, and on leaving school, worked there. Things were just beginning to pick up when the Borough Council intimated their plans to develop the village. This again put the farm progress on hold, as the planning and subsequent compulsory purchase orders had to be confirmed. As the development took place, all the farms concerned gradually lost their land. When they started on Poplar Farm, after the Harvest, I left, as more land was to be taken. My Grandmother eventually retired to a house in the village until her death, and my Mother remained there until ill health forced her to leave. The family donated the stone pillars and gates on the church drive in memory of Mr and Mrs Sam Wilkinson. In writing these memories I hope that they give some insight to those now living in Kirk Hallam of what it was like in times past Disclaimer - Copyright - Is this page correct? Something wrong or missing? Please let me know. Also contributions very welcome |